I.C Developments, Design & Build
A bright shaker kitchen with a marble worktop, charcoal island, bar stools and a glazed door open to the garden
Design & Build Service

The rooms you live in.

Kitchens and bathrooms refitted and finished beautifully, from first fix to the final tile, by the same team that builds the rest of your home.

CHAS Accredited SSIP Assessed Fully Insured Building since 1996
The service

A kitchen is where a home actually happens. It is worth getting right, down to the last tile and the last drawer runner.

We fit kitchens and bathrooms across Surrey, both as part of a larger project and as a job on their own. Because we build whole homes, a new kitchen is never a surprise to us. We know what is behind the wall, we know how to move a soil pipe safely, and we know how to make the joinery meet the floor exactly where it should.

You can bring your own kitchen from a supplier or showroom and we will fit it, or we can help you choose units, worktops and finishes that suit the room and the budget. Either way you get one team for the plumbing, the electrics, the plastering, the tiling and the fitting, so there is never a gap where one trade blames another.

A good kitchen or bathroom is quiet in the best way. Doors that shut softly, tiles that line up, a worktop join you cannot feel. That is the standard we work to, and it is the part you notice every single day.

Recent rooms

Kitchens and bathrooms we have fitted.

A few of the rooms we have finished recently. Tap any photo to see it larger.

A curved fluted kitchen island with a marble worktop and bar stools, fitted by I.C Developments
Kitchen islandSurrey
A modern fitted bathroom with a walk in shower, dark vanity unit and a brass tap
Family bathroomFitted
A finished open plan kitchen and dining space with parquet flooring
Kitchen and diningFinished
A fitted bathroom with a bath, walk in shower and a timber vanity unit
Bath and shower roomFitted
Finishes

Materials that wear well.

Kitchens and bathrooms take daily punishment, so we steer you towards doors, worktops and metalwork that still look right in ten years.

Oak
Painted shaker
Quartz
Walnut
Brushed brass
Matt black
Two different jobs

Kitchen refurbishments, or building the room around it.

Both are proper pieces of work. They are not the same piece of work, and the difference is most of the reason two quotes for a new kitchen can be thousands apart.

A showroom sells you units, worktops, appliances and a plan drawn on their software. That plan assumes flat walls, square corners, a floor at one level and services sitting exactly where the drawing says they sit. In a Surrey house built in 1900, 1935 or 1968, none of that is a given. Fitting a supplied kitchen means levelling and hanging what has turned up, connecting it, scribing it to walls that are not straight and finishing it neatly. It is skilled work, and for plenty of rooms it is all that is needed.

Building the room around the kitchen is the larger job, and nearly all of it happens before the first unit is unwrapped. Taking out a chimney breast. Moving a doorway so the fridge is not stuck behind it. Taking down the wall into the dining room and setting a steel across the opening. Levelling a floor that drops 30mm from one end to the other. Moving the boiler, rerouting the waste, rewiring the whole room and replastering it. Once that is done the kitchen itself goes in quickly and quietly, because the room was built to receive it.

Knowing which of the two you are buying tells you what your money is paying for. It also tells you how long you will be without a kitchen, which is usually the part families care about most. We will look at the room and tell you honestly which one it needs. If a straight refit gives you the kitchen you want, we will say so rather than sell you a wall coming down. There are finished rooms of both kinds on our work page.

Fitting a kitchen you supply

Supply and fit
  • Old room stripped out, disposed of and made ready
  • New units set out, levelled, fixed and scribed to the walls
  • Sink, taps, waste and appliances connected and tested
  • Worktops templated, fitted, joined and cut out for sink and hob
  • Making good, splashbacks, silicone and a clean finish

Building the room around it

Design and build
  • The whole fit out, and everything that has to happen before it
  • Walls opened up, chimney breasts taken out, steels installed
  • Plumbing, gas and electrics moved to suit the new layout
  • Floors levelled, walls straightened, ceilings and plaster renewed
  • Extraction ducted outside and heating reworked around the units
Behind the walls

Moving the services.

Where the waste, the water, the gas and the sockets already sit is what decides whether a new layout is simple or expensive.

Most kitchens and bathrooms were laid out around the pipes rather than the other way round. The sink went under the window because the waste ran straight out through the wall behind it. The WC went against the outside wall because the soil stack was bolted to it. Move the room around and all of that has to move with it, and some moves are twenty minutes of work while others mean lifting a floor.

We would rather tell you which is which before you fall in love with a layout. Here is what each one actually involves.

Waste and soil pipes
Waste runs on gravity, so it needs a steady fall of roughly 1 in 40 all the way to the stack or the drain. Sliding a sink a metre along the same wall is straightforward. Taking a WC to the far side of a bathroom is not, because the pipe has to gain height somewhere, and that usually means building the floor up, boxing in, or bringing the drain round to it from outside.
Hot and cold water
Feeds are first fixed into the walls and floors before anything is plastered, with isolating valves put somewhere you can actually reach them in five years time. We pressure test before the walls close up, because the one thing nobody wants is a joint weeping quietly behind new tiles.
Gas
Moving a hob or a boiler means the gas is altered and tested by a Gas Safe registered engineer, and you keep the certificate for your file. If a hob is heading for an island, the run has to be planned along with the floor build up rather than squeezed in once the floor is down.
Electrics
A new kitchen usually wants more than the old one had. Dedicated circuits for the oven and the hob, sockets where the appliances now live, switched spurs you can get to without moving a fridge, and lighting split into circuits so the room works in the evening as well as at breakfast. The work is notifiable under the Building Regulations, so it is tested, certified and notified rather than simply wired in.
Drains outside
A new sink or shower position often changes where the waste leaves the building. That can mean a fresh gully, a connection into an existing run, or lifting a manhole cover to see what is really down there. We look at the outside drainage at the survey, because it is a cheap thing to check and an expensive thing to guess at.
Floor build up
Pipework, insulation, underfloor heating and levelling compound all take height, and the finished floor still has to meet the rooms next door and sit low enough for the doors to swing. We work the build up out on paper first, then set thresholds and door heights around it.
Heating
Units eat wall space, so radiators usually have to move, get smaller, or turn into a plinth heater or underfloor heating. In a bathroom a towel rail rarely gives out enough heat on its own once the room is tiled, so we size the heating properly rather than hoping.
Structure

Openings, steels and the wall that comes down.

Most kitchen projects that genuinely change how a house feels involve at least one wall that was holding something up.

Opening a kitchen into the dining room, or the back of the house onto the garden, is a structural job with a paper trail behind it. A structural engineer sizes the beam and its bearings, building control is notified and inspects the work, and everything is propped and supported properly while the wall comes out. That is not paperwork for its own sake. It is the difference between an opening that stays exactly where it was put and a crack that comes back every winter.

On site the order matters. Temporary props take the load, the opening is formed, the beam is carried or craned in and set on padstones sized for what they are carrying, then everything is packed and pinned tight so nothing settles afterwards. Steel needs fire protection, usually boarded, and it needs to finish flush enough that the ceiling reads as one clean plane instead of a beam with a bandage around it.

Wide glazing brings its own list. Bifolds and sliding doors are heavy, and they want a level, accurate opening, a proper lintel or beam above, a threshold that drains, and something solid to fix into at the jambs. Lead times commonly run to several weeks from the day the survey is done, so we measure and order early rather than at the point the hole appears. Where the wall is shared with a neighbour, the Party Wall etc. Act 1996 may apply, and notices are served before work starts rather than after.

If your kitchen is part of a bigger opening up, or the room is going into an extension, our guide to what a house extension costs in Surrey is worth half an hour before you set a budget, because it sets out the square metre ranges we see locally, what a headline figure quietly leaves out and how a written quotation should be laid out so you can compare two of them fairly. The rest of our homeowner guides cover planning permission, loft conversion types and how to choose a builder.

Timber props and steelwork supporting the brickwork above a newly formed opening
Steel across the opening
A glazed roof lantern set into a tiled roof, bringing daylight down into the room below
Daylight from above
A large open plan kitchen with a curved island, stone worktops and rooflights above parquet flooring
The finished room
Air and moisture

Steam has to go somewhere.

Extraction is the part everyone skips and everyone regrets. It is also the cheapest thing on the job to get right while the walls are still open.

A family kitchen puts a surprising amount of moisture into the air, and a bathroom puts in more. If it is not taken outside it condenses on the coldest surface it can find, which tends to be a window reveal, the back of a wardrobe against an outside wall, or the ceiling above the shower. Black mould in a brand new room is nearly always a ventilation problem rather than a damp problem, and it is miserable to fix once everything is tiled.

The Building Regulations set minimum extract rates, and they are worth knowing before you choose a hood. Thirty litres per second over a hob, or sixty if the extractor sits elsewhere in the room. Fifteen in a bathroom and thirty in a utility. Meeting those numbers on paper is easy. Meeting them in the room depends entirely on the ductwork, and that is where most installations quietly fail.

What makes the difference is dull and invisible. Rigid duct in the largest diameter the hood will take, the shortest sensible route out, gentle bends instead of tight ones, and no crushed flexible hose hidden in a ceiling void. Any duct crossing a cold loft gets insulated so warm wet air does not condense inside it and run back down. Outside, a proper cowl with a flap that closes when the fan stops. Nobody ever sees this work, which is exactly why it has to be done properly while the ceiling is down.

Ducted outside

The one to aim for. Steam, cooking smells, heat and grease all leave the building instead of settling on your new units and ceiling.

Recirculating hoods

Filtered and returned to the room. They deal with smell and grease but not heat or moisture. Sometimes the only option on an island or in a flat, and the filters need changing.

Bathroom extraction

A humidity sensor or an overrun timer, ducted through the wall or roof rather than dumped into a loft, and sized for the room instead of whatever fits the old hole.

Air coming back in

Extraction only works if replacement air can get in. Trickle vents in new windows and a small gap under the door are what stop a fan straining against a sealed room.

What is included

First fix to final tile.

One team covers the whole room, from the pipework buried in the wall to the last bead of silicone.

Kitchens

  • Units hung level and doors set to shut softly
  • Worktops templated, cut and joined tightly
  • Appliances fitted, connected and tested
  • Splashbacks, upstands and sink cut outs
  • Sinks, taps and waste run properly

Bathrooms

  • Sanitaryware, baths, basins and WCs fitted
  • Showers, trays and screens set true
  • Wall and floor tiling cut to a clean line
  • Underfloor heating laid and commissioned
  • Towel rails and radiators plumbed in

Behind the scenes

  • Plumbing moved and first fixed to suit the layout
  • Electrics, sockets and lighting circuits
  • Extraction and ventilation vented outside
  • Waterproofing and tanking in wet areas
  • Floors levelled and walls made flat before tiling
Worktops

Worktops, and the weeks they take.

The worktop is the surface you touch every day, and the one item on the job that cannot be ordered until the units are already standing in the room.

Stone, quartz, sintered stone and porcelain are all templated after the units are fitted and levelled, because a template taken from the real room is the only way to get a join you cannot feel and a scribe that follows the plaster rather than a drawing. Templating itself takes an hour or two. Fabrication after that commonly runs to one or two weeks with the workshops we use, longer in a busy spell, and longer again for mitred edges, drainer grooves, curves, or a slab with a pattern that has to run through a join.

That gap is the single most useful thing to know before you start, because it is the part of the programme families never expect. We plan around it, get a temporary sink connection in where it is practical, and use the time for tiling, decorating and the jobs that do not need the tops in place.

Laminate is different. It is cut and fitted on site, so there is no wait at all, and modern ones look far better than their old reputation. Solid timber wants oiling before and after fitting and a little care around the sink. Which one is right depends on the room, how you cook and what you want to spend. Prices move a great deal between suppliers and between stone types, so we price the options for your actual room rather than quoting a rate off a page. A real figure follows a site visit and a written quotation.

Laminate
Cut and fitted on site, so nothing to wait for. Hard wearing, huge choice of finishes and by far the kindest on a budget. The weak point is standing water at the sink cut out and at the joins, so those are sealed properly rather than quickly.
Solid timber
Warm to look at and to touch, and repairable, because a scorch or a scratch can be sanded out. Oak and walnut are the usual choices. Order and delivery is often a week or two, then it is cut on site and oiled. It does not enjoy standing water, so the area around the sink needs looking after.
Granite
Natural stone, extremely hard, and every slab is different, which is the appeal and the risk. Worth going to see the actual slab your top will be cut from. Templated first, then usually one or two weeks in the workshop before fitting.
Quartz
Engineered, so the colour is consistent from one end of the run to the other, and it is not porous, which makes it forgiving in a family kitchen. Same template and fabricate cycle as granite. Keep pans off it with a trivet, because heat is its one weakness.
Sintered stone and porcelain
Very hard, heat and stain resistant and available in thin profiles that suit a modern room. It can be run up the wall as a splashback so the pattern carries on. Fabrication is skilled work, so allow a little longer in the programme.
Sinks, taps and cut outs
Undermount sinks are cut and polished in the workshop, so the sink and the tap have to be chosen and on site before templating day. Inset sinks are more forgiving. Hob cut outs, tap holes, drainer grooves and upstands are all decided at template stage, which is why we walk the room with you before the templater arrives.
The quotation

What is in the price, and what is not.

A quote is only comparable once you know what it is supposed to contain. Ours is written, itemised and priced by stage.

What our price covers

Included
  • Protection of floors, stairs and the route in, and a dust screen on the doorway
  • Strip out, safe disconnection, skips and taking the old room away
  • Builders work: openings, floor levelling, plastering, boxing in and making good
  • Plumbing, gas and electrical alterations, tested, certified and notified
  • Fitting of units, worktops, sanitaryware, tiling and all second fix
  • Appliances installed and tested, a final clean and a snagging walk round

What sits outside it

Not included
  • Units, appliances, taps, sanitaryware, tiles and flooring you are buying yourself
  • Worktops bought direct from a supplier rather than through us
  • Structural engineer fees, building control charges and any planning fees
  • Redecorating rooms beyond the ones we are working in
  • Whatever is hiding behind the old units, such as rot, perished wiring or a failed damp proof course
  • Anything added once we have started, which is priced and agreed in writing first

Where you have not chosen the units, the tiles or the taps yet, we put a named allowance in the quotation and tell you what that allowance realistically buys. It keeps the total honest and lets you move a figure up or down with your eyes open instead of discovering the gap at the till. VAT is stated plainly rather than tucked away at the bottom, and the work is priced by stage so payments follow things you can see finished rather than dates in a diary.

Older houses hold surprises, and the honest position is that nobody can price what is behind a wall until the wall is open. When we find something, we stop, show you, explain the options and price it in writing before carrying on. In homes built before 2000 we treat artex, old floor tiles and certain boards as suspect until they are tested, and anything containing asbestos is removed by a licensed contractor rather than sanded down and painted over.

Everything on this page is general guidance for the Surrey market rather than an I.C Developments price list. A real price for your room follows a site visit and a written quotation, and neither costs you anything.

Living with the work

Keeping a working kitchen for as long as we can.

The order we do things in is chosen around your week, not just around ours. A well sequenced job is the difference between three weeks of takeaways and three days.

1

Everything on site first

We do not touch the old kitchen until the new one is here, checked off against the order and inspected for damage. A missing carcass or the wrong oven turns a tidy programme into a fortnight of waiting, and the only way to avoid it is to count the boxes before the first cupboard comes off the wall.

2

A temporary kitchen

Before anything goes, we help you set one up somewhere else. Usually the fridge, the kettle, the microwave and a table in the dining room, the utility or the garage. It takes an hour and it is the single thing that makes the whole job livable, especially with children in the house.

3

Strip out, with the sink kept last

Appliances are disconnected safely, the old units come out and everything is skipped. Where we can, we leave the old sink and one run of worktop live to the last sensible moment, so there is somewhere to fill a kettle while the rest of the room is being cleared.

4

The noisy stage

Walls, steels, floor levelling, first fix plumbing and electrics, extraction ducting and plaster. This is the dusty, loud part, and it is also the shortest route through if we do it in one go rather than in visits. Water and power go off in short planned spells and you get told the day before, not on the morning.

5

Drying out

Fresh plaster and any screed need time before anything goes on top of them, and rushing it shows up later as cracked paint or a lifting floor. We use that window for the work that does not care, such as decorating the ceiling, tiling the walls that are ready and getting the flooring in.

6

Units in, then templating

Carcasses set out, levelled and fixed, doors hung and adjusted, then the worktop templater comes. From here there is a pause of a week or two while the tops are made. We aim to have the sink and at least one appliance usable during that stretch wherever the layout allows it.

7

Worktops, second fix and handover

Tops fitted and joined, sink and tap connected, hob and appliances installed and tested, splashbacks and silicone finished, then a proper clean. We walk the room with you, write the snagging list down rather than nodding at it, and hand over the certificates and the appliance paperwork at the end.

Hands with a pen and a scale rule working over house drawings spread on a wooden table
Planned before we start
Two I.C Developments team members in hi-vis and hard hats fitting ductwork beneath a new steel beam
Ductwork and first fix
Two joiners cutting timber on a mitre saw inside a house during the fitting out stage
Fitting out
Timescales

How long it usually takes.

General guidance rather than a promise. Every one of these moves with the size of the room, the access to the house, the ground conditions where drainage or foundations are involved, and whether planning is needed at all.

Bathroom, same layout
Roughly one to two weeks on site. Out, tanked, tiled, fitted and finished, with nothing moving more than a few centimetres from where it already was.
Bathroom, moved around
Roughly two to three weeks. Once the WC and the shower change position the floor comes up, the waste is rerun and the room needs replastering, which adds both work and drying time.
Kitchen, same layout
Roughly two to three weeks on site, plus the worktop gap if you are having stone. A straight swap with the services staying put is the quickest kitchen there is.
Kitchen with services moved
Roughly three to five weeks. Sink and appliances relocated, floor levelled, new circuits, new extraction and a full replaster before anything is fitted.
Wall down and two rooms opened up
Roughly five to eight weeks. A structural opening, a steel, ceilings made good across both rooms and often the flooring run through as one, so the finish reads as a single space.
A kitchen inside a new extension
Months rather than weeks, because the kitchen is the last chapter of a larger build. Our extension pages set out the programme for that work, and the kitchen fit begins once the shell is watertight and plastered.
Before anything starts on site
Allow for design, ordering and approvals. Kitchen units and appliances commonly run to several weeks from order, glazing longer, and a householder planning application is meant to be decided in about eight weeks where one is needed at all. Building control is notified separately.

Access changes these figures more than people expect. A house on a narrow lane with no parking and a long carry from the van will always take longer than one with a driveway, and older properties on the tighter streets around Reigate, Redhill, Dorking and Caterham are exactly where that shows. We look at all of it on the survey and give you a programme in weeks with your written quotation. You can see the towns and villages we cover on our areas page.

We would rather quote a realistic date and beat it than promise a short one and apologise later. If something on your job is going to move, you will hear it from us early, in plain English, with what we are doing about it.

The kitchen is the room a family actually lives in. It is worth getting right, down to the last tile and the last drawer runner.

I.C Developments · Building since 1996
Good to know

Kitchen and bathroom questions.

Can we supply our own units?
Yes. Plenty of our clients buy their kitchen or bathroom from a showroom or supplier they like, and we fit it. If you would rather not deal with all that, we are happy to help you choose units, worktops and finishes that suit the room and the budget.
Do you handle the plumbing and electrics?
We do. Because we build whole homes, the plumbing, gas and electrics are all part of the service, done by trades we work with all the time. You get one team for the lot, so there is no chasing separate people to connect the sink or wire the lights.
How long does a kitchen or bathroom take?
A straightforward bathroom is usually a week or two, and a kitchen a few weeks, depending on how much moves and the finishes you choose. If walls come down or the plumbing shifts it takes a little longer. We give you a realistic timeline at the start and keep you posted as we go.
Can you move the plumbing?
Yes. Moving a sink, a soil pipe or a radiator to open up a better layout is a normal part of the job for us. We will tell you honestly what is simple and what takes more work, so you can make the call knowing the cost before we start.
What worktops and tiling options are there?
Whatever suits the room and the budget. Stone, quartz, solid timber and laminate for worktops, and porcelain, ceramic or natural stone for tiling. We template properly, cut cleanly, and set the joins where they belong, so the finish looks right up close as well as from the door.
Can we stay in the house while the kitchen is out?
Almost always, yes. Before the old kitchen comes out we help you set up a temporary one somewhere else, usually the fridge, the kettle, the microwave and a table in the dining room or the garage, and we keep the old sink live until the last sensible day. Water and power go off in short planned spells rather than all week, and you hear about it the day before rather than on the morning. The awkward stretch is the wait for stone worktops, and we plan the rest of the work around it so it is as short as possible.
What happens if you find something behind the old units?
We stop, show you, and price it in writing before we carry on. Old houses hide things, and rot under a sink, perished wiring, a failed damp proof course or a floor that is not what anybody expected are all normal finds. Nothing is added to your bill without you agreeing it first. In homes built before 2000 we also treat artex, old floor tiles and certain boards as suspect until they are tested, and anything containing asbestos is removed by a licensed contractor rather than disturbed.
Does a kitchen or bathroom need building regulations approval?
Parts of it usually do, even where planning permission is not involved at all. New or altered electrical circuits are notifiable, extraction has to meet minimum rates, any structural opening has to be sized and inspected, and drainage alterations are covered too. We deal with the notices and the inspections, use trades who can certify their own work, and hand you the paperwork at the end. It matters later, because a buyer's solicitor will ask for it.
Explore more

Other ways we help.

Start your project

Let’s build something lasting.

from the soil in the ground to the keys in your hand